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The updated easy-to-learn reference for rough carpentry and framing
Complete Book of Framing, Second Edition is an updated, easy-to-learn guide to rough carpentry and framing written by an expert with more than thirty years of framing experience. This book guides the reader through the steps on framing floors, walls, roofs, door and window openings, and stairs. Hundreds of color photographs and illustrations help the reader understand the basics as well as advanced framing methods. This Second Edition is updated to match the framing techniques to the 2009 International Building Code, and introduces the concept of "green framing" regarding material use and handling.
- Deals with the new corrosive treating methods that began to be used in 2004 for pressure treated wood
- Covers the time and energy-saving benefits of positive placement nail guns, which have become the industry standard for fastening light gage hardware
- Includes a glue-laminated beam weight chart, along with a description of crane operations for setting these beams
Starting with the basics, this book begins with types of lumber, nails, and what tools are needed, followed by detailed, fully illustrated steps for framing each building element—from planning and layout through specific nailing patterns. Framer-Friendly Tips throughout the book show how to get a task done right—and more easily.
Framing Tips for Every TaskMaterial Movement for Walls
- Locate wall framing so that once the wall is built, it can be raised into position as close to where it finally goes as possible.
- Spread the headers, trimmers, cripples, and sills as close to their final position as possible.
- Eight is an average number of 2 × 4 studs to carry.
- You can use your leg to stabilize the studs you are spreading. Stabilize them with one arm and one leg to free up your other arm so that you can spread them one at a time. This way you won’t have to set them down, then pick them back up to spread them. (See photo.)
- Select a straight plate for the top and double plates, and position any crown in the double plate in the opposite direction of the top plate crown. This will help straighten out the wall.
- Nail the headers to the studs first. Make sure that they are flush on top and on the ends of the headers.
- Nail the trimmers to the studs. Make sure that they are up tight against the bottom of the header and flush with the sides of the stud.
- Nail the studs and cripples to the plates. Nail sills to the cripples and the trimmers. Make sure that all the connections are tight and flush.
- Align the bottom plate so that when it is raised, it will be as close to the final position as possible.
- Attach the bottom plate to the floor along the inside chalk line for the wall. Toenail through the bottom plate into the floor so that the sheathing won’t cover the nails. If the wall is in position, it can be nailed on the inside, and the nails can be pulled out after the wall is raised.
- Use your tape measure to check the diagonal lengths of the wall.
- Move the top part of the wall until the diagonal lengths are equal. Example: If the diagonal measurements are different by one inch, then move the long measure toward the short measure by one half inch diagonal measure. Make sure the measurements are exact.
- Once the diagonals are the same, check by measuring the other diagonal.
- Temporarily nail the top of the wall so that it will not move while you are sheathing it. Make sure you nail so that your nails won’t be covered by the sheathing.
